Headed to southern Italy and looking for the perfect Puglia itinerary? Keep reading for my complete 7 day Puglia road trip, which covers everything you need to know and then some!
Imagine sunrise over Puglia’s breathtaking cliffs in Polignano a Mare. Wandering through the iconic trulli of Alberobello and driving through the cacti-filled countryside. Savoring more delicious orecchiette and fresh seafood than you ever thought possible. What about laying on sun-soaked beaches, exploring the endless olive groves, and having dinner at a local masseria. That’s what this Puglia road trip is all about! And it’s glorious.
The perfect Puglia itinerary blends vibrant cities, charming towns, and stunning beaches. Known as the heel of Italy’s boot, Puglia offers a gorgeous rugged coastline alongside colorful, historic architecture. And with a mild climate of ~300 sunny days a year and some of Italy’s best wines and fresh burrata at every meal, what could be better? It truly is the Southern Italian way of life.
There’s no denying that I’m head over heels for Italy. Over the years, I’ve been to Rome, Florence, Cinque Terre, Venice (and Burano!), Naples, the Amalfi Coast, Verona, Lake Como, and more. So I was thrilled when I finally got to head off on a Puglia road trip with my husband. And what a week it was – relaxing by the sparkling sea, exploring the whitewashed villages, and eating all the fresh seafood we could handle.
I had started hearing about this gorgeous region a few years ago, so I knew I wanted to get there before the masses of tourists started pouring in. Puglia is still largely untouched by international travelers, but it definitely won’t stay that way for long. We encountered mostly Italian and European tourists, although the region is definitely becoming more popular with Americans. It may not be a hidden gem anymore, but you can still stumble upon local favorites and soak up the authentic Puglian vibe.
Get ready for homemade orecchiette and mouth watering focaccia, beautiful baroque and medieval cities, and all the sunset Aperol spritz you can imagine – la dolce vita indeed (the sweet life)!
Puglia Itinerary At-A-Glance
There’s tons of ways to do a Puglia road trip, but after doing extensive research and taking our own trip, I’m sharing our exact week in Puglia (with extra time for Matera). And honestly, I wouldn’t change a thing – our Puglia itinerary was practically perfect!
A fantastic blend of exploring the white-washed streets of Ostuni, relaxing in picturesque coastal towns like Monopoli and Gallipoli, and visiting the iconic trulli in Alberobello. Plus lots of time at the pristine beaches and grottoes (my favorite).
We did a clockwise Puglia road trip from Bari, starting with Polignano a Mare and Monopoli, heading inland to the towns of the Valle d’Itria, driving along the southern coastline from Otranto to Gallipoli, then finally making our way towards Matera (and then back to Bari).
Most Puglia road trips focus on the eastern coast of the peninsula, but I found a bunch of stops on the western coast that I really wanted to see, so I made sure to include those as well!
- Day 1: Polignano a Mare
- Day 2: Monopoli
- Day 3: Towns in Valle D’Itria
- Day 4: Ostuni and Otranto
- Day 5: East Coast of Southern Puglia
- Day 6: Scenic Stops on the Salento Coast
- Day 7: Gallipoli
- Day 8: Matera (Optional)
- Day 9: Matera and Bari (Optional)
7 Days in Puglia Itinerary Logistics
Where is Puglia
First off, where is this Adriatic gem anyways? For starters, Puglia is located in the southeastern region of Italy, often referred to as the “heel” of the Italian boot (look at a map and you’ll see exactly what I mean). It’s not a specific town or city, but a whole bunch of whitewashed villages, agricultural plains (so many olive groves!), picturesque towns on the sea, and charming coastal cliffs. It’s an entire region of Italy, kinda like Provence in the South of France.
Puglia is bordered by the Adriatic Sea to the east and the Ionian Sea to the southeast, meaning tons of sun-kissed beaches and sea views – my kinda place! To the west, it shares a border with the Basilicata region (where you’ll find Matera), while Campania (with Naples and the Amalfi Coast) lies to the northwest. AND it boasts the most eastern point in Italy (Cape Palascìa, commonly known as Capo d’Otranto).
Here’s a look at the distances from Puglia to some major cities and destinations in Italy:
- Bari (Puglia’s capital): ~0 kilometers (as it’s in Puglia)
- Naples: ~250 kilometers (155 miles)
- Amalfi Coast: ~270 kilometers (168 miles)
- Rome: ~400 kilometers (250 miles)
- Florence: ~570 kilometers (354 miles)
- Cinque Terre: ~650 kilometers (404 miles)
- Milan: ~950 kilometers (590 miles)
Looking to combine a Puglia road trip with another destination in Italy? A lot of people pair their Puglia itinerary with the Amalfi Coast, but here’s a tip: hit up Amalfi first. Trust me on this one.
After soaking up the charm of Puglia, the crowds and steep prices in Amalfi can be a bit of a shock. Knock out Amalfi first, and you’ll be pleasantly surprised when you roll into Puglia – fewer tourists and way better prices (on everything from spritz, gelato, and accommodation).
How to Get to Puglia
Thankfully, getting to Puglia is relatively straightforward, whether you’re traveling from within Italy or coming from abroad.
Flying to Puglia
Yes, there’s airports in Puglia itself (I didn’t realize this until starting to research for our trip). The main airports are Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport (BRI) and Brindisi Airport (BDS). Note that if you’re coming from the US, you’ll most definitely need to connect through a major European hub like Rome or Milan.
Bari Airport is larger and has more international connections, while Brindisi mainly serves regional and seasonal flights. If you’re already in Italy you can fly into either, but choose Bari if you’ll be starting your Puglia road trip in the northern part of the region (like us), or Brindisi to enjoy the endless sandy beaches of Salento and explore Lecce.
Taking the Train to Puglia
Already in Italy like we were? You can easily take the train!
We started our Italian Euro trip in Rome, then took a direct high-speed Trenitalia train from Roma Termini station to Bari Centrale station in just over 4 hours. There’s also direct routes from Naples as well, taking about 3 hours or so.
Psst – there’s also long distance buses available through companies like FlixBus which offer routes to Bari and Lecce from cities like Rome and Naples. These buses take a bit longer than the train, but are often way less expensive.
How to Get Around During your 7 Days in Puglia
Driving around Puglia
Driving is the most popular way to get around Puglia, which is why I highly recommend doing a Puglia road trip! Driving gives you utmost flexibility and freedom – perfect if you wanna savor that second gelato and/or spend a few extra hours swimming in the sparkling sea.
You can rent a car from Bari or Brindisi airports, the train station in Bari (what we did!), or from major cities.
BUT driving does have its disadvantages unfortunately – parking is tough and to be honest, Italian drivers are kinda aggressive and don’t follow the rules of the road. Way more helpful tips below.
A few parking and driving tips:
Finding a parking spot: Parking in Puglia can be a bit of a learning curve compared to what you’re used to back home. You’ll find a mix of paid and free street parking, plus plenty of parking lots that come in handy. Psst – if you can’t find a lot, just search for “parcheggio” in the town you’re visiting.
On the street (and in some lots), you’ll see different colored lines which indicate specific parking rules. To avoid any annoying tickets (we unfortunately got one!), remember this:
- Blue lines: You can park here, but a fee is required.
- White lines: This indicates free parking in the designated area.
- Yellow lines: Reserved for local residents only (not you!)
If you’re interested in paying for parking via app, download the Easy Park app in advance. You can only use the app if you see a sign for Easy Park on the meter (you’ll need to enter the zone number in the app).
What is ZTL? The ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato) is an area in cities and towns across Puglia and Italy where most cars, especially those of visitors, are restricted. Meaning if you’re not a local, you can’t drive or park in these zones (a big no-no!). ZTL areas are usually located in historic city centers, like those you’ll find in Lecce, Alberobello, Ostuni, etc.
This means you’ll need to park outside the ZTL and walk into the center. But don’t worry – most towns have large paid parking lots conveniently located just outside. We parked plenty of times in the lots and simply walked over to the city center.
International driver’s permit: In order to rent a car in Italy as an international tourist, you need to present an International Driver’s Permit. We typically get ours from AAA, and it’s a super easy process and only ~$20 (plus passport photos).
Rent a small car: There’s no need for a huge car here in Puglia, and I actually recommend renting the smallest car possible to make parking easier. We drove around in a small Fiat Panda, and were able to park in small spots and navigate the narrow streets with ease. Psst – make sure you know how to properly drive stick if you rent a manual (which is common in Italy and all of Europe).
Be cautious of local drivers: Just being real and sharing our experience of course, but… we found that locals don’t follow the rules and are super aggressive; they don’t stop at stop signs, they tailgate (pretty badly), and hardly follow speed limits. I guess they’re getting annoyed with the increase of tourism… which I totally get. They don’t look, signal, or stop, they just GO. So be extra, extra vigilant and careful. And always let the locals pass you.
Gas stations: We had no difficulty filling up our car on our Puglia road trip. There’s lots of gas stations around, but be sure to have cash on hand in case your credit card doesn’t work (happened to us a few times).
Road conditions: Expect mostly paved roads, with lots of one ways, traffic circles, and one lane highways/roads. We thankfully didn’t hit any toll roads (much unlike our Norway road trip, haha), which meant extra cash for gelatos and taralli! You’ll probably encounter some dirt local roads leading to smaller towns and rural areas – these are usually narrower and some have potholes (but OMG the views are outstanding).
Taking the Train around Puglia
If you’re not renting a car (maybe you’re nervous about driving in a different country or would rather not deal with parking), you’ll be glad to know Puglia has a good train network.
Ferrovie del Sud-Est, which is now under Trenitalia’s ownership, links the smaller towns and inland areas of Puglia. Additionally, Ferrovie Appulo-Lucane connects Puglia with Basilicata, home to the historic city of Matera, Altamura, and Gravina.
Just know there’s not many announcements in English on the trains (keep track of where you are), they run pretty slow, and just assume you’ll be delayed. But hey, they’re not expensive! Just remember to validate your ticket before getting on the train.
While trains make it relatively easy to travel between major cities like Bari, Lecce, and Alberobello, you’ll have a difficult time getting to certain spots on the coastline. Meaning you unfortunately won’t be able to follow my Puglia itinerary exactly.
On foot
Once you’re in town, you can easily wander around on foot. The towns and cities are pretty small, so it’s not hard to see the main highlights by walking. Plus, cars aren’t even allowed in most of them anyways (with the exception of larger cities like Lecce and Bari), so don’t expect any ride shares, haha. Or you can always get an ape if you’re tired of walking!
When to Plan your 7 Day Puglia Itinerary
Puglia experiences a Mediterranean climate with distinct seasons, although it’s never a horrible time to visit. I mean, it’s Italy afterall – gelato tastes delicious year round!
Summer (High Season): June to August
Summer is hot and dry. If you’re looking for the heat of Italian summer, you’ll wanna come between June and September (temps often exceed 30°C (86°F)). Yes, it’s the most popular time to visit, but if swimming in the sea, sipping on Aperol spritzes, and enjoying vibrant outdoor festivals are your vibe, then brave the tourists, haha.
But personally? I’d avoid the scorching summer months of July and August. Why? Puglia is an EXTREMELY popular destination for Italian tourists. Meaning the beaches will be over-crowded, restaurants will be hard to get into, and accommodation will be booked out months in advance. Plus, it’s way too hot to actually enjoy strolling around the cities and towns.
Whatever you do, DO NOT BOOK A TRIP around the holiday “Ferragosto“ on August 15th (there’s an overwhelming number of local tourists then).
Instead of mid-summer, I recommend either very-late May or the very beginning of summer (which I recommend when visiting Greece as well).
For reference, we visited Puglia in early to mid June, and experienced minimal crowds (still lively but nothing insane), near-perfect weather, and the opportunity to enjoy local experiences without the rush. Quite simply, la dolce vita! It wasn’t quite the high season yet, and more crowded than shoulder season, so somewhere in the middle, haha. In my opinion, this is the best time to plan your Puglia itinerary (but make sure you go soon before word gets out about how special Puglia is!).
Spring (Shoulder Season): March to May
Spring in Puglia brings mild temperatures, ranging from 15°C to 25°C (59°F to 77°F) – meaning it’s the perfect time to explore without breaking a sweat. Crowds are low, especially in March and early April, making it a great time for budget travelers. But just remember that Easter is a huge deal here, so avoid visiting around then.
The sea might be a bit chilly in May, but it’s still fine for a quick dip. Most places will be open for the season by then, and you’ll find the coast is definitely quieter compared to the bustling crowds of July and August.
Fall (Shoulder Season): September to November
Fall starts warm in September (at almost summer temps!), gradually cooling to around 15°C to 25°C (59°F to 77°F) by November. September still sees plenty of tourists, but by early October, the crowds have begun to drop, making it a more relaxed time to visit.
Plus, prices begin to drop after summer, particularly in late October and November, so this may be a good time to snag some deals on accommodations (luxury masseria, anyone?!)!
Winter (Low Season): November to February
Winter in Puglia sees cooler temperatures, ranging from 5°C to 15°C (41°F to 59°F). Although tourist numbers are low and accommodations and flights are much less expensive, the weather can be pretty iffy.
Personally? I’d skip this time of year and visit when there’s a better chance of sun and warm weather – especially if you wanna swim!
Where to Stay in Puglia
When we first started planning our Puglia itinerary, I was super overwhelmed with where to stay. There’s over a dozen towns and cities within the region, so it can be hard to decide exactly which to pick. After doing tons of research (literally hours beyond hours), we ultimately decided to stay in a few different spots!
Note that the eastern side of Puglia is the most popular (this is where you’ll find towns like Alberobello, Polignano a Mare, Ostuni, and Monopoli), so hotel prices will be higher, especially in the height of summer.
I recommend breaking up your trip into a few parts, and choosing a few home bases so you aren’t lugging your stuff around each and every day (and needing to change hotels every night, how annoying!).
Special accommodation in Puglia
Whatever you do, don’t miss a bucket list experience staying in a trulli and/or a masseria (an old, renovated farmhouse kinda similar to a Finca in Spain). Our trulli was actually set on a masseria so we got the best of both worlds and had both experiences all on the same night!
Make sure to book a trulli hotel and/or masseria way in advance as they get booked up early – sometimes even a few months in advance.
Masseria: As soon as we started planning our Puglia itinerary, I kept hearing about masserias! What are they? Old farmhouses and estates that have been beautifully renovated and converted into tourist accommodations. Many have stylish minimalist designs and an emphasis on lush gardens, traditional cuisine, and sometimes even their own olive groves or vineyards.
There’s a whole bunch in the Itria Valley, and we had such a hard time choosing which one to book! We ultimately decided on the stunning Borgo Canonica, but I was also looking into Masseria Moroseta, Masseria Il Frantoio, Masseria Grieco, and Masseria Le Carrube (we missed out on a few of these because we booked too late).
Trulli: Another speciality accommodation in Puglia! These are the famous iconic round stone structures with conical roofs. You’ll find plenty of them in Alberobello, but they’re actually dotted all around the valley. Expect whitewashed walls, exposed stone, rustic allure, and modern comfort.
We moved around a bit more than I’d like, staying in Polignano a Mare, a masseria outside of Cisternino, Otranto, Gallipoli, and Matera. Plus a night in Bari before our Puglia road trip since our train got in so late from Rome. It definitely worked and I loved that we maximized our time, but I personally hate having to pack up my suitcase every damn time, haha.
Of course you can stay in any of the towns in Puglia, but we based ourselves in the following for our 10 day trip:
- Bari: Palazzo Danisi Rooms & Suites (1 night)
- Polignano a Mare: San Michele Suite (2 nights)
- Masseria near Cisternino: Borgo Canonica (1 night)
- Otranto: Hotel Palazzo Papaleo (2 nights)
- Gallipoli: Biancodonda Lifestyle Hotel & SPA (1 night)
- Matera: Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel (2 nights)
If you follow my exact Puglia road trip itinerary (or something similar), those areas will work really well if you wanna minimize your driving times.
Additional Puglia Itinerary FAQs
Currency in Puglia: Like in most other European countries, the currency of Italy (including Puglia) is the euro. Don’t expect to use dollars or pounds (or any other currency) here. I recommend carrying around a bit of cash for street vendors, markets, small, family-owned restaurants, and local shops.
Language in Puglia: The official language in Puglia is Italian. However, you’ll also encounter some regional dialects, such as Pugliese, which can vary significantly across different areas of the region.
While most people in the hospitality industry (like hotel staff and restaurant workers) speak some English, it’s important to note that Puglia isn’t as heavily frequented by international tourists as other regions of Italy. Therefore, you shouldn’t expect everyone to speak English fluently. We got by with our extremely limited Italian, and locals really appreciated it when we tried to speak their language.
Is Puglia expensive? Depends who you’re asking, haha. Puglia has become more expensive over the past 10-15 years, but it’s still a budget-friendly option compared to the Amalfi Coast, Cinque Terre, and major cities like Rome and Florence.
Accommodations in Puglia often provide better value, with charming agriturismos and affordable B&Bs available. We found restaurants to be generally less expensive (a huge plate of delicious fresh pasta was no more than 15 euro), and while some beach clubs charge for loungers and umbrellas, there’s also plenty of free public beaches.
Beaches in Puglia: Puglia is known for its stunning beaches, but most visitors don’t realize that many of these are actually rocky! Although you can totally hang out on the rocks like the locals do, just bring water shoes.
Note — Head to the western coast for the best sandy shores.
You’ll see many lidos (Italian beach clubs) dotting the coastline, with things like sun loungers, umbrellas, and beachside dining. And thankfully they usually come at a reasonable price, unlike those on the Amalfi Coast!
How many days to spend in Puglia? We spent 7 days in Puglia (9 if you count our time in Matera), and thought it was the perfect amount of time.
Many people come for less (4 or 5 days in Puglia seem to be kinda popular), but I honestly don’t think it’s enough. This can work if you focus on the popular spots of Polignano a Mare, Alberobello, and the towns in the Valle d’Itria, but gives little room to really explore and relax at the beaches (or head to the stunning west coast).
If you can swing it, I highly recommend at least a week in Puglia.
What are the main towns in Puglia?
- Bari: The vibrant capital of Puglia, known for its historic old town, beautiful seafront promenade, and the stunning Basilica di San Nicola.
- Lecce: Often called the “Florence of the South,” Lecce is famous for its baroque architecture, including the intricate Basilica di Santa Croce and stunning piazzas.
- Alberobello: Renowned for its unique trulli houses, this ridiculously popular (and crowded!) UNESCO World Heritage site offers a fairytale-like atmosphere with its cone-roofed buildings.
- Ostuni: Known as the “White City,” Ostuni features charming whitewashed buildings perched on a hilltop, offering stunning views of the surrounding countryside.
- Polignano a Mare: A picturesque coastal town famous for its dramatic cliffs, crystal-clear waters, and charming old town, as well as being the birthplace of the famous singer Domenico Modugno.
- Monopoli: This coastal gem boasts beautiful beaches, a charming old town with narrow streets, and a lovely harbor lined with fishing boats.
- Gallipoli: A historic town on the Ionian Sea, Gallipoli is known for its beautiful beaches, old town situated on an island, and a lively seafood scene.
- Matera: Although technically in the Basilicata region, it’s often included in Puglia itineraries for its breathtaking cave dwellings (Sassi) and rich history as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Puglia vs. Salento: When I first started planning our Puglia road trip, I was a tad confused about this! Puglia refers to the entire region (all the way from Gargano in the north to Santa Maria di Leuca in the south), while Salento is only the southern peninsula of Puglia (the actual heel looking part of the region).
What to Eat in Puglia (Local Specialities)
Let’s face it – one of the main reasons we love traveling to Italy is to eat ALL the delicious food. And lemme tell ya – Puglia did not disappoint one bit. Let’s just say we ate really well during our week in Puglia, haha.
There’s a reason Puglia is often called the “breadbasket of Italy” – the land is super fertile here, which then produces an abundance of high-quality ingredients. Puglia prioritizes fresh, seasonal produce, the pasta is often handmade, and OMG that olive oil is delicious. And the region is famous for its burrata – reason enough for a Puglia road trip, haha.
Here’s some of the most popular local dishes and specialties you should try:
- Orecchiette: ear-shaped pasta that’s the true signature dish of Puglia, often served with cime di rapa (turnip tops/broccoli rabe) or a simple tomato sauce
- Focaccia Barese: a thick, soft focaccia topped with tomatoes, olives, and sometimes herbs — a perfect snack or appetizer
- Pasticciotto: a sweet pastry filled with custard or cream (my new favorite, especially when served warm)
- Burrata: a creamy cheese that originated in Puglia, made from mozzarella and cream. My all-time favorite thing!
- Sgagliozze: fried polenta squares, usually served as a street food snack
- Tiella di Riso, Patate e Cozze: a savory pie made with rice, potatoes, and mussels, baked to perfection
- Cicoria: sautéed chicory, often served as a side dish, highlighting the region’s fresh vegetables
- Lampascioni: sweet-tasting wild hyacinth bulbs, often pickled or sautéed
- Seafood: Puglia’s coastal location means fresh seafood is a staple — dishes like spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams) and grilled fish are common
- Vino Primitivo: a robust red wine native to Puglia
- Taralli: a crunchy, ring-shaped cracker that’s often flavored with olive oil eaten as a snack (and it’s delicious!)
Now that all the important logistics are outta the way, let’s get started on the Puglia road trip!
Perfect 7 Day Puglia Road Trip Itinerary
A few notes about this Puglia road trip:
- This Puglia itinerary assumes you have 7+ full days to explore the region. Meaning you’ve arrived the day/night before, and are ready to start exploring the next morning. If you have less time for your Puglia road trip, you’ll unfortunately need to cut out a few towns/villages.
- This Puglia road trip itinerary is a ROAD TRIP. Yes, you can still see and do a lot on this Puglia itinerary by taking the trains, but you’ll need to skip quite a few local experiences/sights and you won’t be able to be as flexible.
- In order to see and do a whole lot, it’s very go-go-go. While there’s a little time on this Puglia itinerary for some relaxation and beach time, it’s still a very active trip. Feel free to pick and choose what you do in each town if you’d rather swim a bit more.
- You’ll wanna make some restaurant reservations in advance, especially if you’re visiting between July and September – the most crowded months in Puglia.
- Whatever you do, don’t miss a night at a masseria and/or a trulli, dinner at a masseria (farmhouse), and a local cheese making demonstration. Three of our favorite experiences.
- This itinerary assumes you’re moving around and NOT basing yourself in Bari or one town. Distances are long (Puglia is larger than most people realize – it’s 10x the size of Rhode Island!), so you’ll need to switch accommodation every few nights in order to minimize drive times.
- It skips Lecce entirely. Why? Since we were more focused on scenic beauty, beaches, and small towns, we decided to skip Lecce, one of the larger cities on the Puglian peninsula. I’ll make a note in the itinerary below where it’d fit best if you wanna include it on your Puglia itinerary.
Day 0: Getting to Bari
First things first, get yourself over to Puglia!
Since we were coming from San Francisco all the way in Northern California, we opted to take nonstop flights to Rome (we’ve come to hate connecting flights and will always choose direct if possible, haha). Because of that, after some gelato and spontaneous colosseum sightseeing, we took a 4 hour train from Roma Termini station straight to Bari.
We arrived quite late (well after dark), so were glad we booked a hotel within walking distance to the train station. If you arrive earlier than we did, you can drive straight to Polignano a Mare for an extra night over there.
Where to Stay in Bari: Palazzo Danisi Rooms & Suites (great location and large, clean rooms, although a teeny-tiny elevator, haha)
Day 1: Pick up rental car in Bari, head to Polignano a Mare
Benvenuto in Puglia (Welcome to Puglia!). It’s the first official day of your Puglia road trip, so go pick up your rental car (we rented from Sixt by the Bari Centrale train station), and make your way over to Polignano a Mare! The drive should only take about 30 minutes or so.
Polignano a Mare is one of the most popular towns in all of Puglia. Known for its breathtaking cliffs and crystal-clear waters, it features a jaw-dropping landscape that perfectly captures the vibe of the Italian coastline. The town is also famous for its charming old town, filled with narrow streets and vibrant local culture.
And once you get here, spend the day exploring this stunning coastal town. You can honestly just wander around (the whole area is stunning right on the Adriatic Sea), but here’s a few things not to miss:
- Grab cocktails with a view at Aquamarea
- Have some of the best focaccia of your life at La Focacceria
- Stroll through the Old Town
- Admire the views from Belvedere su Lama Monachile – THE iconic viewpoint in Polignano a Mare (it gets busy over here)
- Take photos from Belvedere Terrazza Santo Stefano and Pendma Chiatt (two other stunning viewpoints)
- Take a boat ride through the cliffs and caves – this was easily our favorite thing we did in Polignano a Mare (complete with swimming in the sparkling sea and sunbathing on the deck)
- Sunbathe on Lama Monachile surrounded by dramatic towering cliffs (if you can find a spot for your towel, haha)
- Indulge in the best gelato at MOREA Gelatieri (we loved the pistachio and stracciatella flavors)
- Try the special coffee (coffee, amaretto, cream, and lemon zest) at The Super Mago del Gelo Mario Campanella
- Learn how to make orecchiette pasta in an Apulian cooking class with a local
Should you have dinner at the iconic Grotta Palazzese? This is the most famous restaurant in Polignano a Mare, and possibly all of Puglia. Reviews say the food is nothing to write home about and it’s nothing special, BUT it’s the experience of literally dining inside a natural sea cave overlooking the sea that’s the real draw.
We opted to skip it, as there’s a minimum spend of €195 per person and we’d rather spend that money on other things. But you decide for yourself – it’s always busy for a reason (you need to make reservations months in advance).
Where to Sleep: San Michele Suites in Polignano a Mare
We absolutely adored this hotel, and had the famous viewpoint right next to us! Breakfast was served in a cozy dining room every morning, staff were beyond helpful with anything and everything, and we loved the private parking – so convenient.
If San Michele Suites is sold out or you’re looking for a hotel a bit more lively, check out Aquamarea (we couldn’t decide between the two and kinda just flipped a coin, haha).
Day 2: Day Trip to Monopoli
Next up on this Puglia itinerary – a day trip to Monopoli, only a 15 minute drive from Polignano a Mare.
Morning: Cheese Demonstration
But first, a cheese demonstration and tasting! There’s a few of them in the area, but we chose to book at Masseria Lamapecora, a super authentic, family-owned dairy farm. We saw the entire process of burrata, stracciatella, and fresh mozzarella making from start to finish.
And once the demonstrations were over, we were given entire plates full of soft and hard cheese to snack on (the ricotta was TO DIE FOR), salami, olives, bread, AND an entire jug of wine (so much that even we, self-proclaimed cheese lovers, couldn’t finish it all). I’d plan to skip breakfast for sure. A definite highlight of our Puglia road trip.
Psst – if you’d rather do a cheese tour on Day 4 closer to Ostuni, here’s two options:
Afternoon: Hang in Monopoli
After stuffing yourself with cheese, make the short drive to Monopoli – it’s only 15 minutes away.
Monopoli is a traditional fishing town set right on the Adriatic with a picturesque port and a charming old town. It’s a bit more laid-back and feels more authentic than nearby Polignano a Mare, and definitely one of our favorite little towns on this Puglia itinerary. You can definitely see glimpses of everyday life here – exactly what we love about traveling in Italy.
A few things to not-miss here in Monopoli:
- Get lost and photograph the historic old town (centro storico)
- Step into the stunning Cattedrale Maria Santissima della Madia, a beautiful domed Baroque church with tons of marble artwork
- Hang on the rocks by Cala Porta Vecchia (Monopoli’s town beach) and take a dip in the sea
- Stroll along the lungomare (a walking promenade that runs along the coast) and visit Castello Carlo V (a beautifully restored 16th century castle)
- Visit Porto Antico, a cute fisherman’s harbor with iconic blue and red gonzo fishing boats
- Take a walking tour of Monopoli to learn about its rich history and local traditions
- Sample Puglian specialities (like focaccia, panzerottini, gelato, taralli, olives, and a glass of wine on a street food tour
Night: Dinner at a Masseria
A dinner at a masseria (a restored farmhouse often set amidst olive groves and farmland) is an intimate experience you don’t wanna miss while here in Puglia. And boy were we blown away! Most offer home-cooked meals featuring local ingredients, and only have a few tables available per night – so be sure to book early!
We chose dinner at Masseria Il Frantoio, and lemme tell ya, the website doesn’t do the place justice (at all). To be honest, we didn’t know exactly what we were booking, and were more than pleasantly surprised. We feasted on an 8-course meal with dishes like asparagus flan, squash blossom fritters, ragout pasta (cooked to absolute perfection I might add), meat rolls with caciocavallo cheese, and chard with lentil cream.
I could eat that meal every single night of my life and die happy. And I LOVED that the dishes were 100% organic, with most ingredients straight from the farm on their property! Exactly what we come to Italy for.
We sat outside in the courtyard filled with blooming flowers, twinkling fairy lights, and candles – oh so romantic and dreamy. One of our favorite nights on our Puglia itinerary by far!
I had really wanted to do the blind tasting meal at Masseria Moroseta, but sadly it was already booked up! Once you know your dates, book dinner at a masseria ASAP.
Logistically, dinner at Masseria Il Frantoio may work better on Night 3 as it’s closer to Ostuni/Cisternino, but we wanted to ensure we had ample time to enjoy our hotel the next night (you’ll see what I mean). Plus, we booked too late and it was completely sold out other nights, whoops.
Where to Sleep: San Michele Suites or Aquamarea in Polignano a Mare
Day 3: Towns in Valle D’Itria
Morning: Alberobello
Wake up bright and early – we’re off to Alberobello, Puglia’s trulli town (about a 30 minute drive from Polignano a Mare)! This is where you’ll find the iconic trulli, traditional dry stone huts with conical roofs. And it sure looks like a fairytale with over 1,000 trulli here!
Since Alberobello is one of the most touristy towns in Puglia, you’ll wanna get here on the earlier side to beat the big buses that drop people off in hundreds. We parked around 8:30am or so and wandered amongst the trulli for a bit until it got crowded. Then we had some of the best focacceria al pomodoro of our lives at La Lira and promptly left, haha. A few hours was enough for us (plus we had more towns to see!).
There’s honestly not tons to do here besides strolling around the UNESCO World Heritage Site, so just soak in the atmosphere and pick up a fun souvenir or two. Alberobello is the main tourist trap in Puglia, but still a must-see (just arrive early!).
The town is divided into two main districts: Rione Monti and Rione Aia Piccola. Rione Monti is the more touristy area (with the highest concentration of trulli), where many trulli have been converted into shops, cafes, and accommodations. Rione Aia Piccola is a smaller but less touristy area of trulli, that’s much quieter and has a more residential feel.
If you’d rather wander around with a local guide and actually learn a thing or two, consider signing up for this 2-hour guided trulli tour. I think our visit would have had a lot more meaning if we understood the history and significance.
Pro tip: Keep an eye out for signs that say “Vista Panoramica” and head up to enjoy the view from the shop’s terrace. To access the stunning viewpoints, you’ll need to buy something from the shop – just a small purchase will do!
Psst – before heading to Alberobello we checked out of our hotel and packed up our bags so we could leave them in the car for the day. No reason to head back to Polignano a Mare if there’s no reason to. We made sure to remove any valuables and left nothing in plain sight (something we’re accustomed to living in San Francisco).
Afternoon: Explore the Itria Valley
Once you’ve had enough of the inevitable crowds in Alberobello, make your way to a few other towns in the Itria Valley (Valle d’Itria). This is a picturesque region in Puglia known for its rolling hills, charming towns, idyllic countryside, and distinctive trulli houses (like what we just saw this morning).
Besides Alberobello, there’s three popular towns in the valley not far from each other (10-15 minutes away). I suggest picking two and wandering throughout those for an hour or two each, stopping whenever you’re hungry, haha.
One of the main draws of these towns is the lack of tourist attractions (and crowds) – simply wander around and enjoy (with a few aperol spritz of course).
They each offer a slice of authentic Italian life, very much the opposite of touristy Alberobello, haha.
- Locorotondo: We loved little Locorotondo! The town is known for its circular historic center, whitewashed buildings, and breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. We had a lovely afternoon break sipping cocktails at a charming terrace bar overlooking the vineyards, olive groves, and trulli below. Truly relaxing and idyllic, even with the Italian sun beating down on us. Don’t miss Punto Panoramico Locorotondo – we loved this little park at the top of the hill with panoramic views of the Itria Valley.
- Cisternino: Another quaint hilltop town renowned for its well-preserved medieval architecture and narrow cobblestone streets. Time really slows down here, and it’s the perfect spot to enjoy a coffee or aperitivo.
- Martina Franca: We didn’t end up making it over to Martina Franca, but I’ve heard really good things! Known for its stunning baroque architecture, the town features impressive palaces and churches, particularly the Basilica di San Martino, which showcases intricate details and a beautiful facade.
Note that many towns essentially shut down between 1 PM and 4 PM – meaning they’re super quiet and not much is open (although parking may be free!). We inadvertently visited Cisternino during this down time and found practically everything closed besides one gelato shop. Other people seem to love Cisternino but it was way too quiet for us, possibly due to the hours we visited. Just something to keep in mind.
Night: Relax and Dinner at Borgo Canonica
After exploring the tiny towns of the Itria Valley, we made our way to our accommodation for the night – the special Borgo Canonica! Part masseria, part trulli, it’s truly the best of both worlds.
We spent a few relaxing hours lounging by the pool, sipping spritz’ at sunset, enjoying our spacious trulli suite, and then eating a delicious dinner amongst the olive trees. Another perfect night.
If you really can’t sit still and wanna take advantage of the night, you can head over to Borgo Antico Bistro in Ostuni for sunset and dinner/drinks. We absolutely LOVED our time at Borgo Canonica so decided to stay on the masseria grounds instead of rushing around.
Where to Sleep: Borgo Canonica (right outside Cisternino)
There’s quite a few trulli hotels to choose from, but we LOVED this one set in the heart of Valle D’Itria, while still feeling remote, quiet, and relaxing. The hotel grounds are stunning, the pool is oh so peaceful, and it was so fun to sleep in a trulli! Plus, there’s free private parking which is always appreciated.
Day 4: Ostuni and Otranto
Late morning and Lunch: Ostuni
After a slow morning at our masseria, we had an eventful few hours in Ostuni. It’s known as the “White City of Puglia” because of all the beautiful whitewashed houses, which many say resemble Greece, but I honestly didn’t see it, haha.
Regardless, we had the most insane orecchiette pasta, loved the views over the valley, and ended up at the police station (for a parking ticket… which took us forever to figure out how to pay lol).
A few things not to miss in Ostuni:
- Lunch at Osteria Piazzetta Cattedral, a Michelin-starred restaurant with a cozy dining room where we had a delicious meal of orecchiette with turnip tops
- Take in the views of Ostuni from Aussichtspunkt Ostuni Altstadt
- Admire the frescoes of the Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta
- Stroll along Via Cattedrale, a famous street with plenty of shops and restaurants
- Take a photo of the iconic Blue Door (La Casa con la Porta Blu)
- People watch and enjoy a gelato at Arco Scoppa
- Explore the maze of narrow, winding streets in the historic center
- Beat the heat and save your feet by taking an Ape tour of the town (a 40 minute tour of the old city on wheels)
- Enjoy aperitivos and wine at Borgo Antico Bistrot
If you’re looking to include Lecce on your Puglia itinerary, this is the afternoon to do so. Lecce is a larger city with a more urban vibe, famous for its gigantic cathedral in the massive Piazza del Duomo and the Roman Amphitheater at Piazza Sant’Oronzo. And make sure to try the local pastry, the delicious cream-filled pasticciotto.
I think if we hadn’t gotten that parking ticket, we would have spent a few hours in Lecce, but we sadly missed it. I honestly wasn’t too fussed about missing out since I was more interested in all the scenic beauty than the history and Baroque architecture in Lecce. Plus, I was heading to Florence in a few weeks, and people say Lecce is the “Florence of the South”, so… lol.
Afternoon/Night: Otranto
After you’re done strolling through Puglia’s Città Bianca (White City), make the drive over to Otranto, about an hour and a half away (or 35 minutes from Lecce).
We spent a few hours wandering around Otranto, grabbing cones at Gelateria Fisotti (such big chunks of pieces), admiring the turquoise sea, and walking around the shops in the centro storico. To say we got lucky with sunset is an understatement – just look at those gorgeous colors! We watched from the rooftop patio of our hotel (Hotel Palazzo Papaleo) and the colors just kept getting better!
If you’re looking for a dinner rec, I HIGHLY recommend Patronale – my shrimp spaghetti was some of the best I’ve ever had, and my husband devoured his linguine alle vongole (pasta with clams).
Where to sleep: Hotel Palazzo Papaleo in Otranto (or Lecce if you’re feeling a more urban vibe)
Our hotel had a fantastic rooftop complete with hot tub, bar, and sunset views, in a perfect location right in the center of town, plus the staff were SO helpful (basically helped us plan out our next two days AND helped us understand how to pay the parking ticket, haha). Such a great stay!
Day 5: Otranto and East Coast of Southern Puglia
We’re off to the sea today! The east coast of southern Puglia is absolutely spectacular (and filled with breathtaking rock formations and sparkling waters), so you should make a day trip out of it. Thankfully the furthest spot is only 25 minutes away from Otranto!
Our day actually started with a cloudy morning and then our first Italian thunderstorm (spritzes were had and we paid our parking ticket lol), so we had a later-than-anticipated start. Hopefully this doesn’t happen to you, but oh well, travel be like that sometimes!
There’s three specific spots I recommend you visit:
Torre Sant’Andrea
Our first stop was Torre Sant’Andrea – and thankfully there’s easy paid parking at Parcheggio dei Faraglioni. From there, it’s just a quick stroll to reach the stunning viewpoints. If you’re only here for photos, plan to spend about 30 to 60 minutes soaking in the scenery.
However, if you’re keen on swimming, be sure to allocate a few hours for a proper dip in the crystal-clear waters. Just a heads-up: while you can swim here, it’s best to wear water shoes since the entrance is rocky and there isn’t a sandy beach.
The unique rock stacks known as I Faraglioni di Sant’Andrea reminded me of the dramatic cliffs along the Seven Hanging Valleys Trail in Lagos, Portugal, and even the Great Ocean Road in Australia!
Torre Dell’Orso
Next, we made our way to Torre dell’Orso, one of my favorite spots on our entire Puglia road trip! Just wait until you see the aquamarine waters from above – oh so sparkly and inviting.
Note that there’s kinda two parts to Torre dell’Orso – a large sandy beach (Torre dell’Orso Beach) with plenty of beach clubs and calm turquoise waters, and a cliff viewpoint overlooking Le Due Sorelle, the two sisters (at Panorama due Sorelle).
These are two rock formations that rise dramatically from the Ionian Sea – and while the rocks were great for photos, I actually loved looking out towards the crystal-clear sea even more!
We didn’t make it down to the beach and just enjoyed the views from above on the cliffs, but if you’re itching to swim you’ll wanna drive over.
Grotta Della Poesia/Cave of Poetry
Last but not least on our itinerary for the day was Grotta Della Poesia, or the Cave of Poetry. This natural swimming pool is renowned for its beauty, though swimming is no longer permitted here (although some people break the rules, don’t be one of them — the cave is closed for a reason). To access the cave, it costs a few euros to enter the larger Roca Archaeological Area.
I have to admit that I enjoyed the scenery walking to the cave better than the cave itself, haha. But it’s still quite epic of course.
Night: After a few hours along the rugged coastline of Salento, we spent the rest of the day and night further exploring the streets of Otranto.
We had more gelato at Gelateria Fisotti (I swear, not all gelato is created equal), hung out at the public beach, and tried some pasticciotto from Martinucci Laboratorio! We were blessed with yet another gorgeous sunset along the sea and indulged in some delicious pasta on one of the quiet streets.
Where to sleep: Hotel Palazzo Papaleo in Otranto
Day 6: Beach Hopping on the Salento Coast
After saying goodbye to gorgeous Otranto (it was my husband’s favorite town!), we made our way over to Gallipoli. But not without plenty of scenic stops and beach hopping of course. It was definitely the most beautiful drive of the entire Puglia road trip since we were along the coast for a good portion of it.
Here’s how we spent our day:
Stop 1: Cava di Bauxite
Cava di Bauxite is a former bauxite quarry (where bauxite was mined), with vibrant red rocks contrasting with the deep blue waters. This was a quick stop for us (just know you’ll need to walk about 15 minutes or so to reach the cave) and loved the natural beauty and unique geological features – I had never seen anything like it.
I wouldn’t consider Cava di Bauxite an absolute must do, but since it’s less than 10 minutes away from Otranto and on the way to our next stop, why not pop over? The landscape really is quite unique and dramatic, although it was SUPER windy when we visited (my hair was EVERYWHERE, hence no pics of me, haha).
Stop 2: Bagno Marino Archi
Time for our first stop by the sea! Bagno Marino Archi is a quintessential Italian lido where you can rent loungers and umbrellas, although it’s definitely on the pricier end. We actually didn’t end up renting anything (we didn’t think we’d be there for too long), so instead we walked along the cliffs and checked out the views instead.
Note that there’s no proper beach here, but instead ladders to get into the sea. When we visited in the AM in early June, there was hardly anyone there. But I heard it’s packed midday in July, so come early!
Stop 3: Porto Miggiano Beach
I only had time for a quick look at Porto Miggiano Beach, but damn, it was drop-dead gorgeous! The dramatic cliffs and crystal-clear turquoise waters had me wishing I could stay longer and soak in the beauty of this local favorite. Again, there’s no sandy beach here, but everyone just hangs out on the rocks and jumps in.
We were a little confused as to where to park at first (we mistakenly parked at the port instead) and ended up walking through a private beach club to get here – but don’t worry, there’s a lot super close, haha. Whoops!
Stop 4: Piscina Zinzulusa
Piscina Zinzulusa is a stunning saltwater swimming pool overlooking the Adriatic sea. And whoa those views! Cliffs and grottos and the deep blue sea.
And get this – there was literally no one there, just us!!! If this spot was on the Amalfi Coast, Sicily, Greece, or anywhere else really, it’d be beyond packed. But since it was early June in Puglia, we had it all to ourselves! So, so wild! But come later in the season, and it’ll most likely be packed, haha.
Stop 5: Grotta Zinzulusa
Right by the pool you’ll find Zinzulusa Cave where you can explore the underground wonders of Puglia on a short guided tour.
In all honesty, while the cave was cool (and I saw tons of stalagmites and stalactites), I actually liked the views leading to the grotto more than the cave itself, haha. We had to wait quite a while for the tour to start, so if you’re short on time and wanna see lots on your Puglia road trip, I might skip this if I were you.
Stop 6: Anam Terrace and Calle d’ Acquaviva
Anam Terrace is the ultimate spot for cocktails and lunch, with killer views over Calle d’Acquaviva – a stunning grotto with crystal-clear turquoise waters. The vibe was so chill it felt more like Bali than Italy, and my husband’s obsession with the cacio e pepe made it even better – just be warned, it’s packed in the summer (are you sensing a theme yet?).
Stop 7: Spiaggia di Pescoluse (Maldive del Salento)
Spiaggia di Pescoluse is known as the Maldives of Salento, and yes, it’s a beautiful beach with fine sand and turquoise waters! But does it compare to the beaches in the Maldives? While I haven’t been just yet, I honestly don’t think so (based on photos I’ve seen). We got unlucky with lots of wind, but hey, it’s better than dripping in the heat!
Night: Sunset and Dinner in Gallipoli
We made it to Gallipoli just in time for sunset at the port (thank goodness for long summer days)! AND we somehow got a table at Trattoria La Puritate – where we feasted on yet more plates of pasta (my spaghetti al limone was just wow!).
Parking in Gallipoli: Like other towns in Puglia, you can’t park directly in Old Town. If your hotel doesn’t have its own parking lot (like ours did!), you’ll need to find a space in the large parking lot by the main port (Parcheggio Porto Gallipoli). From there, it’s a short walk to the castle and Old Town.
Where to sleep: Biancodonda Lifestyle Hotel & SPA in Gallipoli
We loved this hotel and its convenient parking lot, spacious room (which was HUGE with a fabulous shower), and included spa facilities. We didn’t end up using the outdoor pool, but it looked pretty great.
Day 7: Gallipoli, beaches, then Matera
Morning: Explore Gallipoli
Gallipoli is a beautiful coastal city on the western side of Salento, with an old town located on an island (you can easily walk there from the mainland by bridge). It’s small, so you really only need a few hours to wander around.
To be honest, there’s not a ton of things to do in Gallipoli; a visit is more about strolling the streets and city walls, taking in the beach and coastal views.
A few things not to miss in Gallipoli:
- Get lost in the narrow, charming streets of Gallipoli’s historic center (Old Town)
- Check out Castello Angioino, an epic 13th century castle for killer views and a dose of history
- Chill at Spiaggia della Purità, the main beach in Gallipoli with soft sand and gorgeous water
- Snap pics at the Cathedral of Sant’Agata, a beautiful cathedral with stunning baroque architecture
- Stroll the seafront promenade/city walls for views of the sea and fishing boats (where we watched the sunset the night before)
Afternoon: Punta Prosciutto Beach
Between Gallipoli and Matera (our next stop if you have a few extra days), there’s quite a few spectacular beaches! May as well stop for a quick swim or sunbathe session!
We stopped at Punta Prosciutto Beach for a bit, and basked in the sun with limon granitas in hand. Pure paradise in Puglia! The sea was sparkling, the sun was shining, and we were completely relaxed under our umbrellas.
There’s also Porto Selvaggio, Spiaggia di Torre Lapillo (with lots of beach clubs like Orange Sun and Bahia del Sol Porto Cesareo), and tons more along the coastline.
Night: Matera
If you only have time for 7 days in Puglia, you’ll need to head back to Bari or Brindisi or wherever you’re leaving from. BUT if you’ve got more time for your Puglia road trip, I HIGHLY recommend making your way over to Matera.
This city is technically not in Puglia itself, but next door in the Basilicata region. Which is why so many people include it on their Puglia itinerary.
Matera is a remarkable city in southern Italy (and actually Italy’s oldest at 9,000 years old), famous for its ancient cave dwellings known as “Sassi.” I won’t go into much detail here since I’ll be explaining more on Day 8, but the second we arrived at our hotel, WHOA just WHOA. We truly felt like we entered another world, and I highly recommend arriving before sunset so you can really take advantage of some daylight before heading to dinner.
After checking into our cave suite at Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel, we promptly set off for sunset drinks at Terrazza Cavalieri – one of the most popular spots overlooking the Sassi. It gets busy here but thankfully we got a seat!
Quick Note: Parking in Matera is kinda a nightmare. You’ll need to stick to the newer part of the city and make sure to avoid the ZTL. We parked in the first spot we saw (on the outskirts of the Sassi), paid for street parking for the entire duration of our time in Matera, and then didn’t move the car until we were ready to leave the city for good.
Past — make note of where you park your car. We had a slight panic attack when we realized the night before leaving that we didn’t remember where we parked (on some random side street I might add, haha). Luckily, we had paid enough attention the previous afternoon and found it no problem, phew!
Sleep: Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel in Matera
I HIGHLY recommend sleeping in a cave hotel during your time in Matera. I mean, what a unique experience! There’s plenty of luxury options (what we opted for), with a blend of ancient charm and modern comfort. These caves had been inhabited for thousands of years – whoa! Our hotel (Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel) boasted an insane spa in a beautifully lit cave that we definitely took advantage of, haha.
We also looked at Sextantio Le Grotte Della Civita, Sant’Angelo Luxury Resort, and Cenobio Hotel & Spa Matera – but ultimately chose Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel due to its location and mid-level price.
Day 8: Full day in Matera
Wake up in Matera (hopefully in your epic cave hotel), and you’ll immediately feel the magic of Matera. The city is known for its cave dwellings, and they’ve got some wild stories to tell.
These unique structures, carved right into the limestone, date back thousands of years and are actually a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Sassi di Matera is made up of two districts – Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso – where you can just wander the narrow alleys and stumble upon cool churches, quirky shops, and some great local food.
Matera’s got such a fascinating history – people have been living there since Roman times, all the way through the Byzantine era and beyond. You’ll really notice the contrast when you see the “Sassi,” which are the two areas filled with those ancient cave dwellings. They’re totally different from the newer parts of town, so it’s easy to spot!
The city started getting attention recently, especially when it was named a European Capital of Culture in 2019. Its gorgeous landscapes and incredible architecture have even made it a hotspot for filmmakers; you might recognize it from movies like “The Passion of the Christ” and “No Time to Die.”
Honestly, the mix of ancient history, stunning views, and a lively cultural scene makes Matera such a cool place to visit if you want to see a different side of Italy.
Definitely read my full guide to Matera afterwards, but here are some things you definitely don’t wanna miss:
- Visit some of the top lookout points, including Belvedere of Luigi Guerricchio (Three Arches) and Belvedere Murgia Timone (15 minutes away)
- Admire some of Matera’s cool “rock churches” (namely Church of Santa Maria de Idris and Church of Saint Peter Caveoso)
- Explore Palombaro Lungo, the city’s historic underground cistern (only takes 10 minutes to see and a nice respite from the heat) and pretty cool
- Wander the sassi’s narrow alleyways, get a little lost (in a good way), and keep an eye out for hidden gems
- Explore Matera New Town, drastically different from the “Sassi” (a whole different vibe), with lots of shops and places to grab a bite
- Sip cocktails in a cave at Bar Zipa and sunset spritz with a view at Crialoss Panoramic Cave Cafe Bistrot
- Take an Ape tour of Matera to learn the history of the city and get off your feet for a bit
Sleep: Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel in Matera
Day 9: Head back to Bari
It’s sadly the last day of our Puglia road trip, so say goodbye to all the cute kitties (and views) in Matera, and make your way back to Bari. But not before making a few stops of course!
If you need to get back ASAP for a train/flight, just know the drive takes about 50 minutes to Bari and 1 hour, 45 minutes to Brindisi without stopping. Since we had a train later in the day, we had a few hours to explore before our train from Bari to Rome.
Stop 1: Gravina in Puglia
Gravina in Puglia is such a cool spot, especially if you’re into James Bond – the bridge over here was featured in the latest movie, No Time to Die!
But honestly, while the bridge is impressive, the ravine it spans is even more breathtaking. We wanted to get closer but there was a lot of construction going on and we got confused about where to drive, haha.
Stop 2: Altamura
We made a short stop in Altamura to try the famous bread at Antico Forno Santa Caterina dal 1391. Yes, these ovens have been used for over 750 years, and the craftsmanship is impressive. The focaccia we tried was delicious and we watched the bakers preparing the bread right in the shop.
We even got to see a sweet older woman hand-shaping tons of orecchiette pasta right across from the bakery. Although she spoke zero English (to be expected, haha), it was such a cool moment to watch – and definitely gave me a taste of the real Puglia vibe!
Stop 3: Bari
Our last stop of the day before getting on our train to Rome. Bari was way more modern and hip than I anticipated, and it’s a shame mostly everyone skips it as we really enjoyed our few hours here!
We strolled through the narrow, winding streets of the Old Town (Bari Vecchia), saw local women making orecchiette pasta on the streets (at La Via delle Orecchiette), had gelato at Antica Gelateria Gentile, window shopped along Via Sparano da Bari (the main shopping street in Bari) and wandered through Giardini di Plaza Umberto I.
And that’s a wrap on our time in Puglia (plus Matera)! It was honestly one of our favorite trips to date, and I can definitely see us coming back. We stuffed our faces with way too much pasta, had gelato every single day (whoops), took plenty of dips in the sparkling sea, saw half a dozen Italian towns, neither of us got drastically sunburned, and we only got one parking ticket!
Are you planning a Puglia road trip?! Come soon – I’d say most of our trip was 85% Italian tourists or so, BUT I see that changing sooner than later. Such a special place.
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