Headed to the Czech Republic and looking for the ultimate guide to Cesky Krumlov in winter?! You’re in luck! I’m sharing all my favorite things to do in Cesky Krumlov, as well as how to get there, where to eat, and tons of other helpful tips! Including, of course, the Cesky Krumlov Christmas markets!
Imagine a charming town dusted in snow. Medieval architecture straight out of a fairy tale. Winding cobblestone streets with an enchanting castle high above. Warm cafes with hot chocolate and hearty goulash. Strolling through festive christmas markets with a trdelnik in hand. The meandering Vltava River. That’s Český Krumlov in winter – and it’s absolutely magical.
Plus, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, so you know it’s gonna be gorgeous. It’s easily one of the best preserved medieval towns in Europe (like Bruges in Belgium, San Gimignano in Italy, Dubrovnik in Croatia, Colmar in France, Rothenburg-ob-der-Tauber in Germany, and the entire country of San Marino… to name a few, haha), and we just loved it.
The place is straight outta a fairytale, with its serious old-school vibes, medieval architecture, picturesque streets, and the epic Český Krumlov Castle. No wonder it’s a popular tourist destination!
This quaint historical town is way over crowded in summer — it’s the most popular day trip from Prague afterall! But by visiting Cesky Krumlov in winter, you’ll skip most of the tourists and get to explore the town crowd-free!
You might be asking why visit Cesky Krumlov in the winter anyways? If sipping on hot mulled wine while exploring a picturesque town in winter is your kinda thing, you’ll fall in love with Cesky straight away. Plus, there’s way fewer crowds, the possibility of SNOW (!!!), and the Cesky Krumlov Christmas markets (meaning: all the trdelník you can imagine!).
On our last winter trip to Europe, we had decided on including Prague in our travel plans, so I figured we may as well add on a night or two in Cesky Krumlov. And what a great decision that was!
Visiting Cesky Krumlov in the Winter Logistics
Where is Cesky Krumlov?
Český Krumlov is a total gem nestled in the South Bohemian Region of the Czech Republic. It’s tucked in the Vltava River Valley, about 105 miles south of Prague (the Czech capital) and a quick jaunt from the Austrian border (only 20 miles north).
Nearby, you’ve got České Budějovice – home of the original Budweiser beer (yes, the OG Budweiser) – just 15 miles north. And if you’re feeling adventurous, Linz, Austria, is just 43 miles south, so technically you could hop over to two countries in one day. But honestly, Český Krumlov in winter deserves way more than just a few hours!
Geographically, Český Krumlov is surrounded by the rolling hills of the Bohemian Forest – so yes, tons of stunning natural scenery, especially when dusted with snow in the winter. And there’s also plenty of rivers in the area; Cesky is actually located in a tight bend of the Vltava River, which winds its way through the town and adds to its postcard-perfect allure.
How to Get to Cesky Krumlov
Thankfully, getting to Český Krumlov is pretty straightforward, whether you’re coming from Prague, nearby Czech cities, or even across the border from Austria.
From Prague
Most people visit Cesky Krumlov from Prague, and that’s exactly what we did, via FlixBus!
- By Bus: The most popular and cost-effective way to travel from Prague to Cesky Krumlov is by bus. We took a FlixBus direct to Cesky, which took about 3 hours or so, but there’s also RegioJet (we almost used them but then found FlixBus!) and several others. Central Bus Station Florenc was much more convenient for us, but buses also depart from the Na Knížecí station as well.
- By Train: You can also take a 3-4 hour train journey from Prague to Český Krumlov, although there’s nothing direct. Expect to switch lines/transfer at České Budějovice, but thankfully it’s not complicated at all. Also note that the train station in Cesky Krumlov is much further away from the city center (a 35 minute walk) than the bus station. We opted for the bus for convenience and cost, haha.
From Vienna, Austria
- By Bus: Direct buses (FlixBus and RegioJet) run from Vienna (Vienna International Busterminal) to Český Krumlov, typically taking around 4 hours.
- By Train: There’s no direct trains from Vienna to Český Krumlov – you’ll need to take an Austrian Federal Railways (ÖBB) train and transfer to a regional train at České Budějovice. Expect the journey to take around 4.5 to 5 hours, including transfer times.
From Linz, Austria
- By Bus: FlixBus offers direct service from Linz to Český Krumlov (and it only takes about 1.5 to 2 hours). Such an easy way to get there!
- By Train: Similar to the route from Vienna, there’s no direct trains. You’ll need to transfer at České Budějovice.
From Hallstatt, Austria
If you’re headed between Hallstatt and Cesky Krumlov (like we were — we visited Hallstatt afterwards!), just know public transportation will be tricky (especially in foul winter weather with luggage!).
Despite being only ~120 miles apart, there’s not much transport between the two. I guess it kinda makes sense considering both Cesky Krumlov and Hallstatt are smaller towns (but still are both pretty popular…).
We had a hard time finding public transportation (I swear, we couldn’t find anything that made logical sense), so ended up booking an over-priced private shuttle company (because of the holidays) that took about 3 hours door to door.
We used the company Bean Shuttle, but there’s also CK Shuttle as well. Make sure to look out the window towards the beginning of the drive – the views of the nearby lakes are STUNNING.
If you’re up for a longer and (way) more complicated journey, you can take multiple buses/trains to Linz, then a Flixbus direct to Cesky Krumlov. That doesn’t sound like fun with luggage, especially in the winter. Headed to Cesky Krumlov from Hallstatt? Just take the shuttle, haha.
Driving to Cesky Krumlov in Winter
If you feel comfortable driving in snowy winter weather, driving to Cesky Krumlov is definitely an option! You’ll need to be especially careful driving through the Bohemian Forest, which can be extremely snowy and icy. And make sure your vehicle is equipped with winter tires (plus carry snow chains – some roads may be restricted during heavy snow).
Expect the journey from Prague to Cesky Krumlov to be around 180 kilometers (112 miles), typically taking ~2.5 to 3 hours, and from Vienna to be 200 kilometers (124 miles) taking ~3 hours. Remember, if the roads are bad, plan for extra time – winter weather can be utterly unpredictable!
Even though we grew up in New York (with lots of experience on icy roads), we haven’t driven in snow for over 10 years (besides the occasional jaunt to Yosemite in winter and during our frigid winter trip to Banff). We opted for public transit from Prague to Cesky Krumlov, haha.
Parking in Cesky Krumlov
Parking in Cesky Krumlov can be a bit tricky due to the town’s historical layout (parking is restricted in the immediate historical area) and narrow streets. Because of this, you’ll need to park in designated areas outside the center (paid parking lots P1-7). And don’t worry – there’s a lot of spaces; almost 850 to be exact!
Note that you may see vehicles in the historic center, which is a designated pedestrian zone. These vehicles have special time-limited permits issued by the town authorities. Only enter the pedestrian zone if you’ve got a special permit yourself – aka don’t just follow someone!
Day Trips to Cesky Krumlov
If all you have time for is a day in Cesky Krumlov, it’s possible to visit from nearby cities (Prague, Vienna, Linz, etc). Most people visit Cesky Krumlov as a day trip after all.
BUT you’ll be rushing around A LOT and it’ll be hard to take in the vibes of this quaint historical town. Plus, midday is when it’s most crowded (yes, even during winter in Cesky Krumlov), so you’ll be wandering the town with all the other tourists.
Because of that, I highly recommend that you stay a night. But I get that time isn’t always on our sides (I have a full-time job so I know what that’s like!), so of course one day in Cesky Krumlov is better than no days in Cesky Krumlov!
Check out these popular day trip options from nearby spots:
- From Prague: Full-Day Trip to Český Krumlov (Guided Tour and Free Time)
- From Prague: All Inclusive Trip to Český Krumlov
- From Vienna: Cesky Krumlov Small Group Day Trip
Getting around Cesky Krumlov in Winter
The town is teeny tiny — you can literally walk anywhere and everywhere in less than 10 minutes. I swear, it was super wild when I’d put in walking directions from our hotel and the GPS constantly said 5 minutes, lol.
You don’t need to take public transit anywhere – although if you’re coming by train you’ll probably wanna grab a taxi to your hotel (as it’s a 30 minute walk).
Weather in Cesky Krumlov in Winter
Winter in Cesky Krumlov “officially” starts in December, but winter weather is kinda unpredictable. So… you never really know what you’re gonna get! It can be freezing, rainy, snowy, or just a little bit cold (like we had).
December: If I had to pick a month to visit Cesky Krumlov in the winter, I’d pick December. Why?! The Cesky Krumlov Christmas markets of course! The town is super festive (although nothing beats Bruges at Christmas…); think twinkling lights, mulled wine, and traditional Czech pastries.
But there’s the least amount of daylight hours (8.5 or so), so ultimately less time to explore.
For reference, we visited in very-late December and had unseasonably warm weather. So much so that temps were over 15°F warmer than normal. Coming from California, I was stoked that it was never downright freezing in Cesky Krumlov, but have to admit we were pretty bummed it didn’t snow!
Overall, we got relatively mild winter weather, compared to that of Hallstatt in winter which we visited just a few days later. This obviously changes year to year, so next year may be much chillier!
January and February: These are the coldest months of the year, but to be quite honest, it’s not super different temp-wise than December.
Temps frequently drop below freezing (especially mornings and nights) and snow is common. The crowds thin out significantly after the holidays, meaning more peace and quiet as you explore the medieval streets (although some attractions and restaurants may have reduced hours).
Where to Stay in Cesky Krumlov
In this part of Europe, pensions are extremely popular (no stuffy resorts here in Cesky Krumlov). Pensions are small hotels typically in centuries-old buildings (usually no more than 10 rooms), that serve breakfast, and are privately owned – kinda like bed and breakfasts in the states.
And they’re pretty affordable… our pension was under 250 euro for 2 nights in the best location. Most are pretty basic, but have all the amenities you need.
Historic Old Town
If this is your first time to Cesky, I HIGHLY recommend staying in the Historic Old Town. You’ll be right in the middle of all the action, surrounded by cobblestone streets, historic buildings, and the iconic Cesky Krumlov Castle. Plus walking distance to the Cesky Krumlov Christmas markets.
If you’re visiting Cesky Krumlov in winter like we were, you wanna be as close as possible to everything, haha.
We stayed right in Historic Old Town at Pension Adalbert and loved being able to walk literally everywhere. And get this – our pension’s building was built way back in 1513! Tons of antique furniture, the most comfortable beds, a delicious fruit bowl upon arrival, and even castle views from some rooms (including ours!). Quirky and fun and historic with modern touches. There’s a reason it got so many fantastic reviews!
We also considered Hotel Ruze (but it was sadly sold out by the time we booked), Pension Kristian, and Garni Hotel Castle Bridge.
There’s also the option of staying outside the town center, but I don’t recommend this unless you’re traveling by car and want a more rural, serene setting. Being able to walk everywhere just makes it so much easier. Plus, the area outside the Old Town is really hilly – expect to walk up/down some steep spots if you choose a pension over here.
What to Pack for Winter in Cesky Krumlov
Here’s my winter weather recommendations for what to pack for Cesky Krumlov in the winter:
- Warm Winter Coat: For those frigid winter days, you’ll really wanna invest in an insulated parka. I’ve got my eye on this North Face parka (I currently wear one from 10+ years ago – it’s about time for a new jacket). Looking for one a bit less expensive? This one’s crazy popular on social media, and with the length and sherpa-lined hood, I can totally see why. However note that it’s only water resistant, not waterproof, so not the best choice for those crazy snowy days.
- Packable Puffer Jacket: I wear this one – it’s lightweight and water resistant, plus comes in a bunch of fun colors and the pockets are super deep (perfect for storing your phone). It packs down to almost nothing in the little included pouch – perfect for travel!
- Fleece Zip-Up: On those absolutely frigid days when you need a little something between your sweater and warm winter coat, a fleece zip-up (like this Columbia full-zip) will come in handy. There’s a reason it’s got 45k positive reviews!
- Base Layers: I’ve been wearing heat tech long sleeve tees ever since I went to Banff in winter a few years back, and they’ve saved me from those frigid temps! They’re super lightweight and perfect to wear under a sweater, and leave you feeling dry and warm without the bulk!
- Fleece-lined leggings: I used to layer two pairs of regular leggings, but now that fleece-lined leggings are a thing, I only wear those! They’re just as comfy as regular leggings, but keep your legs staying warm and toasty. I’ve worn these pairs a few times and they’ve been great, and come in a bunch of fun colors! If you’re looking for something to wear under jeans or snow pants, these come highly recommended (although too thin to wear on their own; more like a base layer).
- Chapstick: Cold and dry air make your lips susceptible to chapping super easily. Ugh, the worst! I’m low-key obsessed with this cocoa butter swivel stick – it makes your lips so super soft and it smells a tad like chocolate! My favorite! It also works wonders on dry, chapped skin. You’ll wanna reapply multiple times throughout the day.
- Power Bank: Batteries die out faster in the cold, so come prepared with a power bank to recharge your stuff on the go. This compact power bank gives up to 10 full charges! I always throw this tiny one in my bag also, just in case, as a backup. My phone is my life-line (especially when traveling solo), so I like to be extra prepared!
- Beanies: I’ve got this fleece-lined beanie (pom pom included) in a few colors, and always bring a thick headband along too for when I want to put my hair up.
- Warm Gloves: I like to take a few pairs of gloves with me – loving these wool-blend mittens and this pair that’s super lightweight and waterproof (good enough to go skiing in). Trust me, cheapie cotton gloves just ain’t good enough.
- Scarves: I tend to bring a few, since they’re so easy to accessorize with! This blanket scarf is one of my faves (a great neutral option that matches everything), and chunky-knit infinity scarves are oh so cozy!
- Waterproof Snow Boots: Gotta keep your feet warm and dry and comfy on the cobblestoned streets! And THESE Sorel waterproof boots are easily the best ones out there – they’re 100% waterproof, seam-sealed, and actually look pretty cute (unlike most snow boots out there). I practically lived in them 2 weeks straight and got zero blisters! Leave the heeled boots at home – you’ll want comfy flat boots for the cobblestoned streets.
- Polarized sunglasses: Since the sun reflects off the snow, you’ll need some polarized sunglasses – I’ve been wearing these exact ones for years and I just love ‘em.
How to dress: Wear multiple layers on both top and bottom. HOWEVER, not all layers are created equal. You’ll want to layer up on breathable fabrics and waterproof bottoms. I learned that it’s actually the space between the layers that adds warmth (I don’t actually understand all that, but science schmience, am I right?).
Other FAQs about Cesky Krumlov in winter
- Day trip vs. Overnight: If you’ve got the time, I HIGHLY recommend staying overnight. A few hours simply isn’t enough to take in the charming atmosphere, plus by being in town early morning and late at night, you’ll be able to wander without all the daytrippers and have the viewpoints mostly to yourselves.
- Language: Here in Cesky Krumlov (like elsewhere in the Czech Republic) the official language is Czech. So start brushing up on your Czech phrases, haha. Most people working in the tourism industry speak a decent amount of English so you shouldn’t have any language barriers, but it’s always appreciated if you make an effort to speak the local language a bit! Start with “Dobrý den” (Good day) and “Děkuji” (Thank you).
- Are there ATMS in town? Yup, there’s a few around town. Always choose an ATM associated with an actual bank and NEVER Euronet… they rip you off big time. If you wanna save even more, consider getting a no-fee ATM card like Charles Schwab (which we’ve used for years).
- Cash vs credit: All restaurants and cafes we ate at accepted credit cards, but keep some cash on you since the Christmas markets are typically cash only.
- Currency: Like elsewhere in the Czech Republic, Cesky Krumlov uses the Czech Koruna (CZK), aka Czech crowns. As of August 2024, 1 US Dollar = ~23 Czech Koruna (we simplified it a bit to make conversions in our head easier, and used 100 CZK as ~$4). Note that some places do accept both koruna and euro, but be prepared to get overcharged a bit if you pay with Euros. My recommendation? Just take out koruna and pay for things with koruna – you’ll get a much better exchange rate.
- What is the Cesky Krumlov card and should I get one? The card gives you entrance into five museums in Cesky, saving you 50% on entry costs if you go to all 5. It covers the Egon Schiele Art Centrum, Monastery Museum, Castle Museum and Tower (double check the tower’s open when you visit), Museum Fotoatelier Seidel, and the Regional Museum in Český Krumlov. If you’re a museum person, it’s definitely worth it.
- How long to spend in Cesky Krumlov: We stayed two nights here, and had 1 ½ days to explore. The town is small so you don’t need more than 2 days to see everything. We arrived midday our first day (from Prague), and left early morning on our third day to head over the border to Hallstatt.
- Dinner reservations: Yes, you’ll need to make dinner reservations when visiting Cesky Krumlov in winter. We didn’t know this ahead of time and were honestly really surprised. It’s a small town (like, really small) and there’s only so many dinner restaurants, and they do fill up. We got EXTREMELY lucky both nights and walked right into amazing restaurants, but had we not, we would’ve been wandering around for a bit. Don’t have reservations? You’ll have slightly better luck heading to dinner on the earlier side. Not sure where to eat? Make reservations for Svejk Restaurant and Krcma Satlava.
- Are there public toilets in town? YES! There’s a few scattered around the town center, and at parking lots and the bus station. Keep a few coins on you as these are paid.
Brief History of Cesky Krumlov
Before visiting Cesky Krumlov, I honestly didn’t realize just how much history this tiny town has! I mean, its roots stretch all the way back to the 13th century! Founded over 700 years ago by the influential Rosenberg family (who were major big shots of the region), the town grew around a grand castle overlooking the Vltava River.
Over centuries, it evolved from a medieval hub into a Renaissance and Baroque gem, especially under the Eggenberg family in the 17th century.
Today, Cesky Krumlov’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, with cobblestone streets and tons of charming historic architecture. And the main reason why the old city is so well preserved? It completely escaped the bombings in WWII!
Things to do in Cesky Krumlov in Winter
Okay, so there aren’t a ton of things to do in Cesky Krumlov in the winter. But that’s the beauty of this tiny medieval village! You can completely relax and just wander without feeling guilty that you’re accidentally missing out on a whole bunch of things. No FOMO over here, thankfully!
Cesky Krumlov Castle
This is the one main attraction in Cesky Krumlov… so don’t miss it! It’s practically the crown jewel of the entire town with its towering spire and sprawling grounds. And it’s HUGE – the castle complex is one of the largest in Central Europe, with over 40 buildings, five courtyards, and a beautifully preserved Baroque theater.
Originally built in the 13th century by the Vítkovci family, Český Krumlov Castle quickly became a power center in Bohemia. The Rosenbergs transformed it into a Renaissance masterpiece in the 14th century, turning it into a hub for political and cultural life. Over time, its importance waned, especially after the Schwarzenbergs abandoned it in the 17th century. However, thanks to restoration efforts, the castle now stands as a preserved piece of Bohemia’s opulent history.
And opulent it is! That’s what happens when you’ve got a bunch of rich families continuously adding more and more to it over time.
Unfortunately the castle interiors are closed in the winter (whomp whomp… yes, one of the only negatives of visiting Cesky Krumlov in winter). Meaning we missed out on the lavishly decorated rooms and intricate frescoes (sad face). Thankfully you can still walk the grounds, climb the tower (depending on the date), and peak at the gardens.
Visiting the castle is by far the most popular thing to do in Cesky Krumlov in the winter (or anytime, really!). Don’t miss the view from the bridge, admiring the castle facades, and taking in all its Renaissance and Baroque architecture. It’s even gorgeous at night – we saw the castle briefly as we were walking around past dark and it was very well lit.
Note that there’s a bit of an uphill walk to reach the castle, but I promise it’s well worth it. Especially since you can explore the main grounds for free.
A note on the castle bears: Wandering around you’ll undoubtedly come across the infamous bear moat. Yes, you read that right – a moat with real-life bears still living in it. It’s wild to think this still exists in 2024, especially considering Cesky Krumlov is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. They’ve apparently been saved from even worse conditions, but I hardly doubt it.
Why are they even still there? To keep some silly tradition alive from the 16th century? C’mon world, do better!
Latran District
After exploring the castle, wander through the Latran district of Cesky Krumlov, which is built on the side of a hill right next to the castle. It’s a charming medieval neighborhood, and was actually where the castle’s servants once lived.
Today, there’s picturesque streets lined with colorful, centuries-old houses, quaint shops, cozy cafes, and traditional restaurants. We loved wandering the streets here for a bit!
Wander the Charming Town
Wandering through Cesky Krumlov was an absolute highlight of our trip. We loved popping into souvenir shops (and checking out all the traditional Czech crafts and cute marionettes), strolling through Svornosti Square (the main square surrounded by colorful, historic buildings), and eating our weight in klobása (delicious Czech sausages).
The historic center of Cesky Krumlov is so stunning it’s earned UNESCO World Heritage status! Over centuries, the town managed to stay blissfully untouched by conflict, so what you see today – those charming houses and cobbled streets – are the same ones from hundreds of years ago. Every street is practically a postcard! There’s meandering cobblestoned streets, colorfully painted facades (look closely – those bricks are not actual bricks…), and gorgeous views of the river and castle.
And by staying overnight, it felt like we had the medieval town all to ourselves – we loved our early mornings and after-dark strolls when the streets were nearly empty! If you wanna dive deeper into the town’s history, consider joining a free walking tour (everyday at 10am and 2pm).
Stroll through Svornosti Square
This is the main square of medieval Cesky Krumlov, and I think we passed through it at least a dozen times, haha. Why? Because it’s where you’ll find the Cesky Krumlov Christmas markets and all the snacks that come with it (more on that soon)! Besides the food, I loved photographing the colorful houses and just taking in all the vibrant energy.
The square also features the 14th-century town hall and the striking plague column, dedicated to those who lost their lives during past outbreaks.
St Vitus Church
On your stroll around town, don’t miss the impressive St. Vitus Church. Think Gothic architecture, intricate stonework, detailed frescoes, and towering pink spires. Plus STUNNING stained glass windows and a freaking gorgeous Baroque altar. There’s no reason not to go – it’s literally a one minute walk away from the main square!
We quickly popped in, thinking we’d get some relief from the cold, but I don’t think there was any heat in there, haha.
Cesky Krumlov Christmas Markets
Out of all the things to do in Cesky Krumlov in winter, wandering around the Christmas markets were by far our favorite. They’re not crazy impressive or even too large for that matter (way smaller than the ones we visited in Prague), but way more relaxed and charming with a local, authentic feel. Sure, there were visitors, but the markets didn’t seem like an overrun tourist attraction like they do in other cities.
There’s stalls selling a variety of food (roasted chestnuts! gingerbread cookies! Czech sausages!), drinks, and Christmas crafts, musicians playing, and a cute wooden merry-go-round. And all the trdelnik you can imagine (a traditional Bohemian pastry more commonly known as chimney cakes)! We loved sipping our svařák (mulled wine) and apple almdudler punch (something new for us!) while browsing the handcrafted ornaments and picking out our next local treat.
The markets completely take over the main square (Svornosti Square), so you’ll definitely run into them as you’re wandering around town. I recommend visiting them at least twice – during the day and once again at night. Our pension was steps away so we found ourselves in the square with trdelnik in hand a few too many times, haha.
Daytime will be busier (since that’s when all the day trippers will be there), but winter evenings add a magical touch. Plus, most visitors after dark are locals or Czechs visiting from elsewhere in the country.
Note that the markets are typically held from the very end of November to the very, very beginning of January (they’ve ended New Year’s Day in years past). Find exact dates and way more info here on the official website.
Enjoy all the hearty Czech food
You’re in the heart of bohemian Czechia – try all the things (scroll down for a full list)! We ended up eating a decent amount at the Christmas markets (so many trdelníks, haha), but made sure to try classic goulash with dumplings and of course a few crispy schnitzels and a roast pork. They sure love their carbs here, and I’m not mad about it. It’s exactly what you want on a cold winter Cesky Krumlov day!
Warm up in cute cafes
And on that note, when you inevitably get chilly (it gets cold here, haha), go warm up in some cute cafes! Cesky Krumlov has its fair share of cozy spots, which we popped into when we needed to feel our fingers again. I honestly had no clue Cesky has such a great cafe culture, but we were pleasantly surprised and loved grabbing warm drinks and pastries between all the exploring.
There’s a whole bunch of cafes, but we loved Drunken Coffee (with plenty of board games), Kolectiv (despite the whole place feeling like a sauna…), and Masna 130 House & Cafe (they really care about coffee here) the best!
Take in all the views
There’s no denying it – the views from town are GORGEOUS, especially in Cesky Krumlov during winter if there’s some snow (which there wasn’t for us unfortunately). Here’s some of the best viewpoints in town:
Seminární Zahrada: This park (translating to Seminar Garden) is by far the most popular view in all of Cesky Krumlov, and where you’ve seen plenty of photos from. The terrace has a gorgeous 180° view over the roofs and streets, with the castle behind them and the river in the middle.
It was pretty crowded when we went, as a walking tour was passing through. We waited for them to leave and ended up having the entire place (almost) to ourselves.
Psst – we went back here multiple times because the views were too good to pass up when we were nearby (which was all the time because nothing’s far away, haha). Find this spot directly across the street from Hotel Ruze.
Cloak Bridge: This 5-layered bridge is over 40m tall, and is actually part of the Cesky Krumlov castle complex. Head on up – you’ll find one of the best views over the old town and the Vltava River here. There’s plenty of openings so check out more than one.
Cesky Castle 5th Courtyard: Just after crossing the Cloak Bridge, you’ll come upon the 5th courtyard. You’ll see a white-ish wall with arched openings – perfect for framing your photos!
Keep walking past the white wall and you’ll come to a viewing platform with some of the best views of the entire town! It was a bit hazy when we visited, but of course I still took tons (and tons) of photos, haha.
Castle Tower: It’s an extra fee to walk up, so just be prepared to pay for the view, which overlooks the entire town and the winding Vltava River. We unfortunately missed out on this since it was closed when we were visiting (a holiday).
What and Where to Eat in Cesky Krumlov
Visiting in the winter? You’re in luck – Czech cuisine is known to be hearty, comforting, and super rich with a focus on meat. Oh, and super carby (they love their potatoes, breads, and dumplings over here). Think steaming bowls of goulash and plates of crispy potato pancakes. Mmmm – perfect for a chilly night. How many dumplings is too many dumplings? Asking for a friend…
We admittedly didn’t eat too many actual meals in town, as we filled up on sausages and trdelniks at the Cesky Krumlov Christmas Markets for lunch both days we were there. Whoops, but not really, haha. We’re absolute suckers for market food now!
Here’s the basics of Czech cuisine, and what to order if you see it on the menu!
- Svíčková: Marinated beef with creamy vegetable sauce and bread dumplings.
- Goulash (Smažený Svíčkový): A rich, flavorful stew of beef and vegetables, usually served with dumplings or bread
- Czech Roast Pork (Vepřo knedlo zelo): Roast pork with crispy crust, sauerkraut, and dumplings.
- Trdelník: Warm, caramelized sweet pastry with a doughy inside and sometimes filled with cinnamon sugar and/or nuts.
- Smažený Sýr: Deep fried cheese (!!!) with a crispy exterior and gooey inside
- Koláče: Sweet pastries filled with fruits, cheese, or poppy seeds.
- Bramboráky: Crispy potato pancakes seasoned with garlic and caraway seeds.
- Knedlíky: Soft bread dumplings, great for soaking up the sauce in the many meat dishes!
- Česká polévka: Traditional Czech soups, such as goulash soup or creamy mushroom soup.
- Palačinky: Thin pancakes similar to crepes, usually served with jam, chocolate, or fruit.
- Hearty Soups: Try garlic soup (česnečka) and potato soup (bramboračka) – both super flavorful and utterly fantastic
As for where to eat and drink? Check out Hostinec Depo, Apotheka Cafe Bar (great for a late night drink!), Svejk Restaurant (I had the best varenyky/dumplings of my life here), Hospoda Na Louzi (order the roast duck and some beer), and Laibon (with great views of the river).
Whatever you do, don’t miss Krcma Satlava – a very popular cave restaurant that’s basically a medieval tavern. Make a reservation in advance. We ate by candlelight and it was oh so cozy and romantic – the most perfect Cesky Krumlov winter night.
So there ya have it – my complete guide to Cesky Krumlov in the winter! Are you headed to Czechia soon?! Have some trdelnik and dumplings for me!
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